Building Modern Theatrical Flats

The basic component of theatrical set design will always be the flat.

Since we as humans live and work in places with walls, our creative interpretation of those spaces will also need to represent those walls. Theatre, film, television, and other forms of entertainment each have their own way of creating walls that look real but ware practical enough for the environment in which they are used. For instance, film flats are often constructed nearly identically to real walls: vertical 2x4 studs with drywall. Television flats are closer to typical theatre flats: 1x2 or 2x2 frames, screwed or nailed together in the corners, with lauan skins. Both of these are called "hollywood" flats due to their thicker edges which apparently look better on camera. Classic theatrical flats will typically use 1x4 frames, connected with 1/4" plywood in the corners and keystones, with either muslin or lauan skins.

Living in a suburban environment that has a HEAVY film and television influence, I've noticed a merging of styles. I've seen flats made with 2x4 frames, screwed together at the corners and drywalled: VERY HEAVY, but solid. I've seen 1x2 stock turned sideways and screwed to 1/4" plywood: VERY EXPENSIVE and VERY HEAVY, and not even all that solid. But what I've found is that there is a medium between cost-effectiveness and stability, and that medium ground is where most of my standard inventory is built.

To build a standard 4x8 flat, I use lower grade 1x4 spruce stock. Both Home Depot and Lowe's have it available for about $2 for an eight foot length. For a 4x8 flat, you will need about 27 linear feet, so that makes 4 @ 1x4x8. Look for straight boards, and preferably ones without excessive knotting or splitting. You will cut five boards:

• 2 @ 1x4x8 - Uncut.
• 3 @ 1x4 x 3' 5" - If your 1x4 stock is not exactly 3 1/2" wide, you might have to adjust this a bit to get a total width of 4'.
  

Instead of cutting 1/4" plywood triangles for the corners, I use Simpson Strong-Tie MP24 mending plates. These are usually about $0.70 each, and you will need 12 of them. Using a framing/carpenter's square you will lay out the flat frame as shown below:

Using a hammer (sledge is best) and keeping the framing/carpenter's square on the corners, drive in the prongs of the MP24 mending plates so that the tops are flush with the surface of the wood. Once you've driven in the first six on one side of the flat, flip it over and drive in the remaining six on the other side.

For the skin, I use 4x8 1/8" lauan. Lowe's has this size lauan in stock more consistently than my Home Depot does. For some reason, my Home Depot carries the 3x7 stock. I run a ribbon of carpenter's glue on the face of the frame, then set the lauan on top. Using 9/16" heavy duty staples, I tack the lauan to the frame every 6", keeping the staples perpendicular to the grain. On the top and bottom edges, I staple about 1/4" in, and on the sides, I center the staple on about 3/4". Depending on the density of the wood, you will likely need to use a hammer to tap some of the staples flush with the surface of the lauan.

After the glue has dried for at least an hour, you can then use the flat. I usually go a few steps further at this point to prolong the life of the flat:

• On the sides of the back of the flat, I "butter" the edges of the wood with a random orbital sander. Buttering involves taking the edges to a rounded or 45 degree angle. Additionally, I sand the bottoms, edges, and top to ensure that there are no splinters of wood that might get caught and cause a split during storage or transit.
• When a very nice finish is required, I will additionally skin the flat in muslin. This will require 3 yards of 60" wide muslin, and additional stapling on the back side. Once the muslin is stapled in place, you will take some watered-down latex paint and coat the whole surface of the flat and let it "size" itself to the frame and surface of the lauan. Alternately, you can skin the flat with ONLY muslin if you are trying to cut weight and total cost of the flat.
• If I know that a particular short edge will be the bottom of the flat, I will tap in two metal or plastic glides into the edges of the vertical pieces of the flats, about 2" in from the edges.
  
• If I know that I will be hanging the flat, I will get two 1 1/4" eye screws and use a drill to pre-tap the holes for those eye screws into the top horizontal piece of the flat, about 6" in from the edges.

Beyond this, you have many alternatives in size and even shape, but the basic method will be the same. Flats constructed using this method will give you components you can add to your theatrical scenic inventory for use many years to come.


- Sean